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How to build a 10 second car

42K views 26 replies 14 participants last post by  ricehunter  
#1 ·
I figure that I should build the engine right from the get go...

What ALL do I need to do to be able to run 10's (11's up in the rockies where I'm at)

My over all goal is to make a Road Race car that can run pretty decent in the 1/4 (10's/11's)

So far my plan is thus:
DSMlink
850's w/E85
WB255 hotwire
The ultamate build from Jack's transmitions
ACT2600
Silicone intakes 31"x11.75"x3" FMIC with a full 2.5 to the throttle body (1g N/T)
3" turbo to Cat, 4" Catback with testpipe
FP3052
Ported 2g manifold or the FP cast mani

The Bolt ons I'm pretty familir with, its the bottom & Top end i need advice on, what crank, Pistons, Rods, Cams, etc And how much boost should I push?

I did a search but it won't let me search "10"

btw I'm not a fan of NO2, I may throw a setup in there for S&G but not really use it.
 
#2 ·
Yea, forgot the deatails.

95 Talon AWD
I'd prefer to keep this a street (semi-legal) car. I haven't run 12's yet, but I did stumle uppon a buildable engine that I can build in my spare time/money then drop it in wen the time comes, with the bolt ons.

I'd like to keep the 1.999 mabe go to a 2.001 but I wouldn't stroke it...that's not my job lol
 
#3 ·
Learning how to use the search button would be a good start. :rolleyes:

Buschur's upgrade path (for a 1g, but the idea is the same).
http://www.buschurracing.com/dsm-stage0.htm

RRE's upgrade path (will get you to the 11's).
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2gupgradepath.htm


-You don't need an exhaust that big, 4" is retarded big.
-Stock crank, aftermarket forged rods and pistons (almost any brand will hold the power you need, read reviews and pick your favorite).
-Oem MLS head gasket, arp head studs.
-No need for nos.
-Ported 2g manifold will get you there, the fp manifold will get you there easier.
-Might look into running a 1g head/intake and having some turbo seals put in your 1g n/t tb.

Look and see what other people who run 10's are using, you can learn alot by studying other peoples setups.
 
#5 ·
Come on now Red…

The quickest way to run 10’s is to go to a 1/8 mile track… :p
 
#6 ·
OMGZ MAD BENCHRACR ALERTTTT!!

Buy a boost controller. Buy a boost gauge. Buy an Air filter and a Turbo-back exhaust.

...Run 14's and pretend it run's 10's. Decal's that say "I run 10's" or "Z06 4 Breakfast" sure help fit the stereotype.

Next, go bak 2 skool and lern how 2 splell
 
#8 · (Edited)
ricehunter said:
I figure that I should build the engine right from the get go...

What ALL do I need to do to be able to run 10's (11's up in the rockies where I'm at)

My over all goal is to make a Road Race car that can run pretty decent in the 1/4 (10's/11's)

So far my plan is thus:
DSMlink
850's w/E85
WB255 hotwire
The ultimate build from Jack's transitions
ACT2600
Silicone intakes 31"x11.75"x3" FMIC with a full 2.5 to the throttle body (1g N/T)
3" turbo to Cat, 4" Catback with testpipe
FP3052
Ported 2g manifold or the FP cast mani

The Bolt ons I'm pretty familiar with, its the bottom & Top end i need advice on, what crank, Pistons, Rods, Cams, etc And how much boost should I push?

I did a search but it won't let me search "10"

btw I'm not a fan of NO2, I may throw a setup in there for S&G but not really use it.
Fixed

So what you're saying is that I'm never going to achieve it so stop trying... Thanks for the encouragement :wall:

Well I'll do it with our with out your guys help, either way I'll get it done. I have the drive to do it. I'll make the money some how, either my salary or eventually get sponsors...

And I do the best I can on spelling, I was using Opera which doesn't have spell check.

I'm familiar with bolt-ons, I just want some info on internals.

Here's what i have so far:

free mods
Step 1: Hack Aircan and Intake Area x
Step 2: Clean Throttle Body
Step 3: Verify that WOT is 100% x
Step 4: Check IC outlet Pipe for Corrosion x
Step 5: Open up the Fender Liner x
Step 6: Clean the Intercooler x
Step 9: Valve Cover Vent Breather x
Step 10: Unplug Clutch Switch x
Step 11: Pressure Test the Intake

Stage 1
Intake Pipe and Filter
Aftermarket Boost Gauge x
Blow Off Valve x
Boost Controller x
Cat-back Exhaust System x
High Flow Cat/Straight Pipe x
High Flow Downpipe :)
Exhaust Manifold Porting :)
O2 Sensor Housing :)
Fuel Pump
Intercooler Piping
Turbo Upgrade x
Performance Clutch :mad:
Shifter Mods
Limited Slip Differentials x

Stage 2
Logging Software :mad:
Warning Meters
Fuel Controller/Engine Management :mad:
Fuel Injector Upgrade :mad:
Front Mount Intercooler Kit
Lightened Flywheel
Helmet
Racing Seats/Harnesses x
Roll Cage

x = Installed
:) = have it, not installed
= don't have it
:mad: = need it bad
 
#9 · (Edited)
I was being serious or you could just copy my setup. It's very simple and effective. If I don't list it, it's stock.

FP3065 turbo
EVO3 exhaust mani
3in turbo back exhaust
40mm external gate
4in intake pipe

Slowboy racing FMIC with 2.5in piping
gus modded 1g BOV

2.3l with venolia pistons and eagle rods.
No BS
HK$ 272 cams

3in Gm MAF in blow thru
DSMlink
EVC easy boost controller

Walbro 255hp intank
Bosch 044 in line pump
1600cc injectors
E-85

Stock tranny with restalled stock converter (auto)
For 5-speed recommend Shep built or similar.

KYB adjustable shocks
H&R race springs.

Thats it!

At your altitude it should be good for lo 11s. Full boost for me is around 3800-4k rpms with very useable boost by 2800-3krpm.
 
#12 ·
ricehunter said:
Fixed
So what you're saying is that I'm never going to achieve it so stop trying... Thanks for the encouragement :wall:

Damn son, you haven't read a word people have said... I told you what internals to use, DSMscreamer shown you exactly what to run and you get all butt hurt about the critism.

Learn how to search, obviously you will need to be a little more descriptive than just the number 10. Getting into the 10's will require you to use your head and if you can't learn how to use a simple search engine, I have little faith you will ever be faster than stock.

I can't understand why everyone thinks we want to spoonfeed them, nobody on here gives a damn if "you" want to go fast, put in some effort and show us that you want to go fast and we'll talk...
 
#13 ·
Thanks DSMscreamer that's what I was looking for. The reason I'm shooting for 10's is I don't want to spend 10k to get to 12's 10k to get to 11's and 10k to get to 10's if I can spend 20k to get to 10's from where I am.

I've been searching and I wanted to post it because I hate hijacking other people's threads.

Currently I'm running the T28 (got it on a trade for some home theater equipment)

I'm looking to run 10.99 (10.5 at most) and I want this car built more for road courses than anything, I just want to be able to go out and smoke some of those V8ers when they say "imports are slow" or make comments about how there's no replacement for displacement.
 
#14 ·
You really sound like a cannibal RICE_HUNTER !!:D
The reason why people tell you to run 12's first is because you probably don't understand how all this sea of after market parts react together.
 
#16 ·
burnnxs said:
You really sound like a cannibal RICE_HUNTER !!:D
The reason why people tell you to run 12's first is because you probably don't understand how all this sea of after market parts react together.
That's why I'm asking people who have used these products before; Also I can draw on my brother's knowledge of these cars, so I figure that if I can make enough money I can get my car where I want it to be.
 
#18 ·
ricehunter said:
I'm looking to run 10.99 (10.5 at most) and I want this car built more for road courses than anything, I just want to be able to go out and smoke some of those V8ers when they say "imports are slow" or make comments about how there's no replacement for displacement.
Shit most V8's out there don't even run 12's. Run 11's and you'll pretty much beat everything out there, short of a highly modified car, regardless of displacement.

You've been watching too much F&F. Uh, "you owe me a 10 second car".:wall:
 
#19 · (Edited)
Red1991TSI said:
You've been watching too much F&F. Uh, "you owe me a 10 second car".:wall:
I'm just tired of these guys always talking bad about import cars, and I'd like to set some of them straight. I'd like 10's but I'll take what I can get, I have to deal with the altitude up here so a 10 at sea level is 11's up here. I'd be happy with 11.5-12 up here.

I used to like those movies until I actually learned about cars, I watched the first one again recently when it was on HBO and :puke:
 
#20 ·
ricehunter said:
I'm just tired of these guys always talking bad about import cars, and I'd like to set some of them straight. I'd like 10's but I'll take what I can get, I have to deal with the altitude up here so a 10 at sea level is 11's up here. I'd be happy with 11.5-12 up here.
I lived in Denver recently and currently in Albuquerque. Denver was just a tad higher than here. Heck I think we may even be higher than Colorado Springs. Yup, the altitude kinda sucks for cars, but less so for turbocharged cars than NA.